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Artisan Somerset
Cheddar
Cheddar
is one of the most famous cheeses in the world but also
one of the cheeses most often produced industrially.
Barely 5% of the 400 producers who made Cheddar in the
cheese's home territory—the county of Somerset in
southwest England—a half-century ago remain in business.
The centralization of cheesemaking in the years
following World War II had significant effects on
traditional Cheddar production in Britain. First,
official requirements for cheese to have specific
moisture content (to enhance keeping properties) led to
the elimination of moister types. Secondly, the number
of farms that resumed production after the war was
greatly reduced. The introduction of rindless block
cheeses and frequent use of pasteurized milk further
reduced the unique characteristics of Cheddar made in
southwest England. But an artisan, handmade version
still exists, made in the rich dairy pastures
surrounding the town of Cheddar in Somerset, where a few
farmers continue to produce the region's traditional
cheese.
The cheese curd is created using old strains of bacteria
(known as 'pint starters'; these are based on
traditional local microflora) and calf rennet, both of
which help to provide broad, round flavors. The curds
are cut until they're about the size of a grain of rice,
then they are poured onto a draining table where the
real work begins. The curds are ‘cheddared’ by being
formed into blocks, which are stacked and turned by hand
for an hour. This changes the texture from crumbly lumps
to pliable, elastic slabs and gives the finished cheese
its unique texture. Before being transferred to the
aging room, the slabs are bandaged with lard-soaked
muslin. During the aging process, the cheese’s natural
crust remains intact and is never shrink-wrapped or
treated in any way to aid moisture retention. A single
form of Presidium Cheddar weighs 50 to 60 pounds, and is
aged for at least 11 months, though it can be aged up to
two years.
Artisan Somerset Cheddar has a richly moldy brownish
gray rind and an intensely hay-yellow curd. The texture
is firm yet buttery, and the curd has flavors of
caramelized milk, hazelnut, and bitter herbs.
The
Presidium
All three Presidium members make only ten to twenty
cheeses a day and—from start to finish—each form takes
three days to make. Presidium members only use milk
produced on their farms and they use it, untreated,
within a day of milking and solely local 'pint starters'
are used to culture the milk. The Presidium has been
created with the goal of educating consumers about a
different type of Cheddar made from fresh local raw milk
and crafted by hand. This Presidium will also promote
taste education, participate in local and international
gourmet events (where the presence of an ‘artisan’
Cheddar often raises eyebrows), spread the understanding
of traditional British farming techniques, and adopt
sustainable cheesemaking and agricultural techniques.
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